Monday, 11 March 2013

Ian's AW13/14

Time for a retrospective

Okay let's start with Balenciaga, easily the most anticipated of the season. Love love love the monochrome for a start, nice to see Wang exploring it again after his Spring/Summer and it leads nicely on from Ghesquière's final RTW. Minimal structure on the back of certain pieces (third down) was also reminiscent of both. Despite the links the collection was in no way tired or repetitive; sharp silhouettes and clean lines kept the Balenciaga woman simultaneously strong and elegant. By the looks of it Wang's going for a smooth takeover (with which he's succeeded), though it is only his first season. Looking forward to SS14. Bravo Wang.

Speaking of takeovers... it wasn't so long ago we saw Hedi Slimane's first collection for Saint Laurent. While Wang went for a smooth transition, Slimane clearly had over ideas in changing the name and logo of the iconic brand. Then came SS13 - I'm not a fan. And now... ugh. Basically how I'd sum up AW13-14 in a word... or noise. I'm kind of despairing at how far Slimane missed on this one. I just... ugh. No. He's been given a brand with a huge reputation and clientèle and has disregarded all of this to invent his own Saint Laurent girl (note girl, not woman). I honestly don't know who he expects to buy these, the slight problem being that fourteen year old girls who have soft grunge tumblrs can't afford Saint Laurent and people who can afford Saint Laurent don't want to look like fourteen year old girls who have soft grunge tumblrs. The only enjoyable thing about the show was the internet backlash - my personal favourite: "I didn't know Urban Outfitters were showing in Paris". Pull it together Slimane.

In other news... big fan of some of Derek Lam's work this season, mainly the coats. I can't resist minimalism when it's done well though more in shape and silhouette than in colour pallete here.

Again for minimalism you can always count on JW Anderson - big fan despite the shoes (and i'm still deciding whether I love or hate the fur plastic combos. A strong collection from Celine though I'll admit to not being a huge fan of the past the cuff sleeves. Loooved Tom Ford, good to see pattern done well again.  

Simons shines again developing the Dior woman (take note Slimane) while putting his own stamp on the brand. Love the similar motifs to his indescribably perfect SS13 menswear collection. All hail Raf.

Favourite show of all though has to be Chalayan for pure originality alongside a stunning collection of texture and silhouette. Perfect perfect perfect combination and contrast of structure and fluidity creates pieces that fit, flatter and accentuate the body beautifully. Ugh just perfect.

And those metamorphosing dresses my god.